The Sportbike / Super Sport Motorcycle Breakin Period

www.MotorcycleBreakin.com

Link 1 How to "Break In" your new motorcycle

Link 2 The difference between HORSE POWER and TORQUE!!!

Link 3 Dyno Specs on the 4 - 600/1000cc top super bikes

The Motorcycle Breakin Period

Disclaimer - FAILING TO FOLLOW THIS DISCLAIMER CAN RESULT IN DAMAGE, INJURY OR DEATH. I CLEARLY TELL YOU TO CONTACT YOUR FACTORY AUTHORIZED DEALER FOR INFORMATION ON BREAKIN. I AM STATING THIS INFORMATION BELOW IS OPINION. IF YOU CHOOSE TO FOLLOW IT I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR ANYTHING. I AM NOT A FACTORY AUTHORIZED DEALER FOR ANY MOTORCYCLE MANUFACTURE. THEREFORE I CAN NOT TELL YOU HOW TO BREAK IN ANYTHING. This is to protect my self against any damage you might do. I take no responsibility for any damages you do to your self as in injury or horse power loss or gain. No responsibility for anything. I further more state that I write here NOT TO EXCEED LEGAL SPEED LIMITS. I did this with in the posted speed limits. You can too.

Here ya go!

Warning about Redline. "Never" touch the redline on Tac before or after breakin. Never. You can go right up to it but not passed it. Even staying near redline for more than a few seconds can damage an engine. 1000 Rpms below Redline makes all the difference.

Getting more years out of your engine. Driving at lower rpms will not only reduce the strokes in your engine but keep the heat down. Heat = Wear as well.

Now we start with the break in!!!

Use Valvoline, Halvoline, or similar 10 w 40 Petroleum Car Oil for at least 2 full days of hard racing or 1,500 miles of street riding / driving. No $0.89 cent oil. The V/Halvoline will run a wopping $1.50 per quart.

After that use your favorite brand of top quality oil.

Using this method I produced the most HP on the Dyno for my Sport Bike dyno'd at 2000 mi. This breakin takes longer but I have tested it and it works every time and for those who have used it. Some say to break it in harder, but is it worth damaging your $12,000 investment? Some say to be really soft when breaking it in. Soft is bad! It can shorten the life if the rings because they can wear uneven.

There is a big debate about riding HARD to break it in. So many people think riding hard = riding near redline. That is called cooking your motor. You do not want to do that. Hard is lots of compression. Riding hard to build compression = MAX FUEL! I now have the most HP of all my group of the same bike. We all broke our bikes in differently. The people using this method were all on top for power. ALSO some people had the same top power but less low end torque. The people using this method had best of both areas!

!@! => Revving in neutral is a definite way to insure less power before breakin is complete.

If you are going to fast or too high in the rpms just shift up to the next gear. If going to fast come 100% off the gas. Don't drive in steady traffic. Wait until you can find an open road where you can speed up to legal limits and then slow down and back and fourth. Mostly always 100% gas or 0%gas. On / off the throttle. No 50% gas, Mostly either 100% or 0%. You can roll on fast, you do not have to snap it. But get to 100% gas quickly. That's riding HARD! Pushing tight corners and going 160 mph doesn't work the engine anymore than 30 mph at full throttle. If shifting up gears, don't shift up to much, (example... 6th gear at 30mph with fill throttle) . That is also VERY BAD. This might actually apply Too Much Pressure on the rings. Just go up 1 gear. That is plenty. Up one gear is like adding around 75 lbs of rider and that is more than enough to stress the engine. You want to stress it, not break it.

Heres the thing. It is not actual miles that break it in. They say well the first 20 miles are the most important. Well 20 miles at 8,000 rpms is the same as 40 miles at 4,000 rpms as far as the engine is concerned. It is piston strokes. If you use low rpms it just takes longer to break in.

Another way to compare break in is fuel mileage. A better broken in bike will get more miles per gallon after breakin. Compare with your friends, fill up a tank of gas with another rider equal in weight on the same brand/year bike and the one with more gas at the end has a better broken in bike.

The first oil change is most important if you break it in faster. If you ride high rpms change oil a lot more often during breakin. If you redline early(not recommended), must change oil at 20-30 miles. Fresh oil will not slow breakin. Actually it helps make the bike smoother in the long run. The little metal parts in the oil during early breakin do bad wear not good wear.

DO NOT CHANGE TO SEMI SYNTHETIC TOO EARLY. IF YOU DO THAT - YOUR DONE! GET IT OUT AND PUT NON SYNTHETIC OIL IN.

FOR A BIKE OFF THE SHOWROOM FLOOR
Warm up bike completely.
Ride soft for the first 2 miles going through all the gears if your dealer has not test drove it.
(These 2 miles gives the oil filter time clean up any metal during the engine building.)
Stay at low RPM's with full throttle working up through all gears first 10 miles.
You can go up 1,000 more RPMS every ten miles.
You should feel this. The best description I can give of a proper breakin, is that the bike just feels like it is getting lighter... because the engine is doing less work to put more power out.

80% or the piston ring compression will be done in the first 20-50 miles.

From the 2004 Suzuki GSXR 1000 owners manual Quoted... "Do not exceed 6000 rpms for the first 600 miles. Do not exceed 9000rpms from 600-1000 miles. However it is very important to place some stress on the engine!" They mean GAS IT ! Wow, its in the manual. You really do not have to exceed the rpms in the owners manual if you do not want to. Just apply full throttle most of the time and you will do just fine.

REMEMBER. Do not stay at a consistent RPM. Backing off is as important as full throttle.

THE POINT OF THIS FORMULA IS TO KEEP UNDER LEGAL SPEED LIMITS.
Under race track conditions you have turns, and riding naturally will break in the bike just fine. On the street you have to simulate on off throttle like race track conditions.

How much fuel you use will determine how well you break it in. This % formula is the key at any speed.

2-10 miles upto 30% rpms of normal TAC.
11-20 miles upto 40% rpms of normal TAC
21-30 miles upto 45% rpms of normal TAC
31-40 miles upto 55% rpms of normal TAC
41-50 miles upto 60% rpms of normal TAC
- oil and filter change -
51-60 miles upto 65% rpms of normal TAC
61-70 miles upto 70% rpms of normal TAC
71-80 miles upto 80% rpms of normal TAC
81-90 miles upto 90% rpms of normal TAC
91-250 miles upto about 93% rpms of normal TAC
251-600miles about 95% rpms of normal TAC
- oil change -
At this point it really doesn't matter that much as most of the breakin is done. But you will still gain a noticeable power increase up to 1,500 miles so keep going but you don't have to make every mile count at this point. If you want to squeeze every HP that you can get out of your engine continue to ride with stress until you reach 1,500 miles.

We have done this many times now and the Dyno results are always the same increase for normal riding and hard riding between 1,500 and 2,500 miles. So just ride it as you want after 1,500 up to 2,500 miles. Just don't baby it too often until you reach 2,500 miles.
- oil and filter change -

2,500 miles - breakin is totally complete. We have tested this up to 5,000 miles and have not seen an increase in power after 2,500mi.

The engine will still breakin a little more upto 4000 mi. under any driving conditions (mostly the transmission) so wait for 4000 mi before using synthetic - You are not going to gain any more engine power but the bike might ride smoother and shift smoother. You finally can also baby the bike after 2,500 miles. It won't make a difference at this point. The breakin on the rings is already completely over and won't gain any more power.

IF YOU RACE!!!!! -> go synthetic at 2,500 mi.

If you ride street !!!! -> You can go synthetic between 2,500 and 4000 mi.

Our test results on 2004 models. 2 zx10's that were babied dyno'd 142 hp. A GSXR 1000 babied dyno'd142 hp. 2 zx10's, using this formula had 155 hp the other 156 hp, and many GSXR 1000's using this formula had 149 hp all on the same dyno's with in 2 hours.

If you have not switched to synthetic yet by 4,000 miles use full or semi synthetic oil now. Non synthetic oils are only good for breaking in since they permit wear. You do not want wear on your engine long term!

What if you went to synthetic oil before 2,500 miles. You halted the breakin process. Remove the synthetic, put in non synthetic and run it for 50 miles to work out the synthetic oil, change oil again. And finish the breakin. Add 50 more miles to breakin.

Do you want proof? See these photos from MotoMan's website.

LINK http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

Remember, ALWAYS use a good quality oil from DAY 1. Cheap oil will hurt the engine and it will not make it break in faster.

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